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The one question you're probably all asking?

Q: Why can I buy an Indian copy RB106 for as little as £25.00 but your ADR106 costs more???

A: The answer is simple. You get what you pay for!
£25.00 retail price takes into account very basic manufacturing costs, manufacturers selling cost, shipping costs from India, import duty, importers mark up, the sellers mark up and VAT in the UK and EU.
All of a sudden your retail price of £25.00 is knocked down to around £8.00 manufacturing cost. The more you pay for it, is simply, the more the profit for the seller. 

Why do the 6v units cost you so much more when they cost no more to make?
Most sellers sell on the basis that 6v items are rarer so commands a higher price. 
Total rubbish!

What do you get for your money? Cheap and nasty foreign made products mass produced in a factory in India. Until now they were all that was available new. 
It looks a bit like your Lucas original and some sellers even sell them as a Lucas RB106 so you think that's what you're getting. You've no other choice.
They don't last long - some people say 6 months, some maybe a year. 
One of my customers reported 5 in three years!

The technology used in the Indian copy dates back, unaltered, to 1935. 
Yes, 82 years ago. The build quality of the Indian made unit is far from that of the original Lucas unit.

They're made of thermo setting plastic which softens as it heats up. It gets hot under the bonnet of your classic, even hotter on a hot day. The plastic softens and the vital air gaps between the regulator and cut out contacts alter. This throws charge voltage sky high. 
The cheap ceramic field resistor mounted underneath gets hot as the voltage rises beyond its capability and it melts the plastic around it. Then the regulator fails or worse still the cheap, soft cut out contacts stick together. This heats up the dynamos field as the dynamo tries to act as a motor and tries to turn the engine. 
There is no fuse to blow and protect things so the wiring acts as a big fuse. 
So big, it doesn't blow, it just heats up and melts. 
Sound familiar?

So, enter our new ADR106. From the outside, a dead ringer for your old Lucas unit.
That's where it stops. Under that lid is not 82 year old technology. What you'll find under the lid of an ADR106 is the latest Solid State, surface mount technology that's well protected against faults and fully fuse protected. This fuse not only protects the regulator, but also the dynamo in the event of overloading or short circuit.

Look at all the components used in the manufacture of the ADR106. 
All these parts are made in England by local manufacturers.
The terminals and screws are all nickel plated.
The base and lid is made from high temperature resistant plastic that can withstand temperatures up to 150 degrees. The lid clip is smooth galvanised spring steel.
The heat sink is made of high grade pure aluminium. This takes away the tiny bit of heat produced by the ADR106 to keep its components cool and ensure a long, reliable life.

The ADR106's PCB (printed circuit board) was tested on real vehicles before going into manufacture. Talking of manufacture, it's made here in Lincoln by a reputable English company using the highest quality parts all of which are over-rated for the job they have to do making the PCB the toughest and most hardy available. Each PCB is tested at manufacture to ensure correct operation. The original prototypes are still doing sterling service on the test vehicles. We also tested them to the limit (and beyond) on our test bench. We short circuited thoutput and inputs. 
We overloaded them and ran them at full load for 24 hours with a fan heater blowing hot air to replicate a hot under-bonnet scenario. 

Finally, the 14 different components that make up the ADR106 are assembled by skilled hands to our exacting standards right here in our workshops. Each one is accurately set to the required voltage and current settings. Unlike the Indian 6v RB106, our 6v variant uses more components than the 12v which is why it costs just a little more.
Each assembled unit is then tested again before being boxed and labelled with a build date and serial number. Fitting instructions are included in each box.
Last but not least, the box is labelled ready to go off and give its new owner years of perfect service.

That's why the ADR106 and ADR95 don't cost between £18.95 and £30.00.



"Q: My 6v 3 brush Austin 7 has a problem with new LED indicators. On one side both indicator bulbs light dimly and then fade, and then light again, with each flash. The illuminance seems to vary in intensity, at some times the bulbs lighting more strongly than in others. Even in testing the bulbs by connecting them directly to the output tag on the flasher unit, bypassing the car wiring, the same thing occurs - some bulbs work fine, others not. I’m confused and bemused.


"A: make sure all the earths are good (LEDs dislike poor earthing) and that there are no short circuits, even minor ones (such as bullet connectors barely touching aluminium armoured cabling). If all is fine, make sure that the feed to the flasher unit is clean, preferably from the input side of the switchboard/control panel rather than the output side (for other ancillaries). LED flasher units and LED bulbs like a nice clean input feed with no potential interferences."

Q "My 1935 Ford 8hp is 6 volt and a pain to drive in the dark. With the lights on the ammeter shows a 2 amp discharge at speed. Will an electronic regulator fix this?"

A. Yes. The small 8 & 10hp Fords had the most basic 3 brush fixed rate charging system ever! One continuous rate, lights on or off. To get the dynamo to compensate fully for the lights being on meant that with the lights off the dynamo would charge at a constant of 8-10 amps. Bear in mind that we also have to fit a 2nd tailight to satisfy the law these days too so there's even more load. I can convert the 3 brush dynamo to a 2 brush unit and either hide an electronic regulator in the existing cutout case or under the dashboard where it won't be seen. A small modification to the wiring is also required. The result is, all the power that the dynamo now produces is used to power the lights and ignition. None is wasted on powering an inefficient mechanical cutout. Your ammeter will read zero with the rev's raised showing that the dynamo is compensating as it should. You should check that you are not using bulbs that are too big also. 24 watts per headlamp is adequate. Every 6 watts over std requires an extra 1 amp with a 6 volt system.


Q "My 1933 Austin Seven is still 6 volt and always shows a small discharge with the lights on. After a long run the battery struggles to start the car next day. I avoid driving after dark because of this. I'm thinking of a 12 volt conversion. Help!"

A. The Austin, like many other cars of the 1930's uses the 3 brush system. The 3rd brush has to be moved to alter the charge rate from one fixed point to another. Move it too high and the battery will boil during daylight running. Most set it slightly low and like yourself, avoid night time running. Your Austins dynamo will convert to a 2 brush unit which can then be connected to an electronic regulator with a little alteration to the wiring. You can keep your existing dashboard charging/ignition switch. Check also the size of the bulbs you are using. 24 watts per headlamp is adequate. See my chart  for recomended bulb sizes.

A 12v conversion is also possible.


 Q "My 1956 Ford Popular is all original and has a Lucas RB106 mechanical regulator  that sometimes won't cut in unless I take the cap off and push on the contacts.

What can I do?"

A.  Send me your existing RB106 unit I will convert it to efficient electronic operation. If your existing case is broken or cracked I can usually supply an off the shelf ready to fit electronic conversion. This applies to any post war vehicle that uses the RB106 type regulator. All my converted units come with detailed fitting instructions to make fitting the unit easy.


Q "My 1967 MkII Cortina has the standard Lucas RB340 3 bobbin regulator and a Lucas C40 dynamo. The battery warning light glows at tickover and glows brighter at tickover with the lights on. Why?"

A. Assuming your dynamo brushes are Ok then this is a normal accurance. The C40 type of dynamo was used on many many cars in the 1960's and into the 1970's until around 1973 (Austin 1100, 1300 MAXI & 1800 Mark 1&2 CORTINA  ESCORT & CAPRI IMP AND AVENGER to name but a few)

 The cutout inside your RB340 fluctuates at low rev's so therefore very little charging takes place. When you put the lights on, the power demand increases, the dynamo can't supply it so the cutout completely breaks the circuit and on comes the battery light. A straightforward convertion to an electronic regulator inside the RB340's case will give instant better results. The electronic regulator allows for better low speed charging. It has no mechanical points relying on current to keep them closed.


Q "I run a 1934 BSA Sloper and a 1955 BSA B31. Both have bad charging and lighting typical of old British motorbikes. I've heard about a modern regulator but I'm not electrically minded at all. What can be done?"

A. Your BSA Sloper uses a Lucas E3HM 3 brush dynamo with the cut out in the end of the dynamo case. The B31 is a std 60 watt 2 brush set up. Both use a mechanical CVC. Send me your Slopers dynamo and your B31's old CVC and I'll convert the dynamo to 2 brush fit it with an electronic regulator. I'll fit the B31's MCR2 regulator with the same. You can choose 6 or 12 volt and positive or negative earth. You should also check your bulb sizes especially on the Sloper as you only have 40 watts to play with. See my chart for LED bulbs.


Q"Will an electronic regulator work well with a Lucas MC45L type dynamo as fitted to Sunbeam S7/S8 and Scotts?"

Yes, no problem.

Q"What about the Lucas C35SD dynamo fitted to Ariel Square Fours?"

Again, it will work well with this dynamo giving good results

Q"Is an electronic regulator suitable for the Miller dynamo fitted to a Vincent or Velocette?"

Yes, as long as the field is re-wired to suit and original cut-out removed (in some cases). We can do this for you


Q"Will an electronic regulator suit the dynamo fitted to MZ motorcycles?"

     Yes. Much the same for Jawa/CZ bikes.


Q"What about  my BMW Isetta bubble car, it's fitted with a Dynastart?"


Yes, an electronic regulator is available to suit Bosch and Siba Dynastart equiped vehicles, motorcycles and boats.


Q"The dynamo on my pre war Austin 12 hardly seems up to the job. Is there anything that can be done to uprate it?"


A 2 brush conversion with an electronic regulator hidden inside the existing cutout box is the way to go.

Q "My 1934 Alvis has a CJF cutout and C5A 3 brush dynamo with a summer/winter charging set up. Sometimes it charges, sometimes it doesn't. I like to use it all year round and at night. What can be done to improve things?"


A straightforward 2 brush conversion to your dynamo first. Next, I'd build an electronic regulator inside your existing Rotax cutout case. Thirdly, a conversion to negative earth.

Q "I own a 1915 Rover 12hp with a Dynamotor that can supply 8 amps. The cutout sticks more often than not. Will your regulator cure this problem?"


We can convert the unit to a reliable 2 brush machine and fit a matched electronic regulator inside the cars existing cutout box. Problem solved! 

Q "I have fitted your 21w LED bulbs to my stop lights and 5w LED's to my tail lights. The tail lights work perfectly until I put the brakes on and then they go out. Is it a faulty bulb?"

It's not a faulty bulb. Our bulbs are tested by the manufacturer and then again by us before we send them out to our customers. It's likely to be a bad earth or polarity issue on your vehicle. LED bulbs are sensitive to polarity and a bad earth than a filament bulb. Check the earthing arrangement to your tail lights which is normally by fixing screws which corrode with age causing a bad connection.


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